2024 Triumph Rediscover Ladakh Ride: Exploring Mountains One Pass At A TimeI had butterflies in my stomach as I picked up a brand-new Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro from the showroom in Delhi for my ride to Leh. I was going to be a part of the Rediscover Ladakh ride, which promised to show the less touristy and commercialised parts of the high Himalayas. I was giddy with excitement as I rode back home and secured and strapped my rucksack on to the rear seat of the Tiger 900 for my 1000 km ride into the mountains next day onwards.
Day 1: The Ride Begins - Delhi To Chandigarh
The journey of a 1000 km long road trip begins with a basement photo of the motorcycle, in this case the updated Tiger 900. I was already familiar with the motorcycle, having ridden it earlier in Morocco, when it was launched as a new-generation model. As I hit the Delhi Chandigarh highway, I was able to observe the changes on the motorcycle. While the styling updates were minimal, the motorcycle had a few mechanical updates, with the engine now making more power and torque and being smoother too. Delhi to Chandigarh is straightforward and the Tiger munched up miles with immaculate ease. As I reached Chandigarh, I met all my fellow riders and the good folks from Triumph Motorcycles India along with XploreEarth Shimla, the team that was to conduct the ride all throughout. The good thing about motorcycles and motorcyclists is that you are always at ease and make friends easily, because motorcyclists always have lots of stories to tell.
Day 2: Entering The Himalayan Highs - Chandigarh To Manali
The early morning sun cast a long shadow as I thumbed the starter and the Tiger 900 woke up with a reassuring growl. The triple was idling as I strapped my luggage on to the motorcycle and don my gear, making the final checks coupled with some stretches for a long day in the saddle ahead. As I started riding the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro. Chandigarh's bustling streets soon faded into the rearview mirror as the Triumph cavalcade headed north, the buzz of the city replaced by the steady hum of the triple engine beneath me. The ride was smooth, with the Tiger 900 gliding effortlessly over the highways.
The first stretch is familiar, a long highway with its fair share of traffic, and by late afternoon, we reached Manali. The weather made the gradual shift from hot to pleasant as the altitude rose, and there was a distinct chill in the air now. The jagged mountains stood guard in the distance, almost whispering of the adventure that lay ahead. As we reached our hotel, there was a bonfire waiting which was a welcome after a chilly ride, followed by a sumptuous dinner where the team yet another chance to bond.
Day 3: Off-Road Excursion - Manali to Sissu
The next morning, the Tiger and I took the famous Atal tunnel, a 9 km long tunnel carved into the heart of a mountain, 10,171 feet above sea level in order to reach our destination for the day, Sissu. But it was not just a short ride. Team XploreEarth had a nice patch of off-road terrain ready for us where we were to ride till Chhatru for our lunch and then head back to Sissu. In total, it was a 50-60 km off-road patch, with winding roads, rock strewn water crossings, tricky mud and slush stretches and what not. And this is where I got a solid taste of what the Tiger 900 was capable of. With the enduro mode on, power dropped and ABS and traction control switched off, the Tiger 900 barely broke a sweat all throughout. The handling was impeccable, allowing me to confidently navigate the sharp twists and turns, while the suspension absorbs all undulations with relative ease. With a nice meal of 'pahadon wali maggi' and chai, and a ride back to our hotel in Sissu where we ended the day with a nice meal and some beautiful views of the peaks around.
Day 4: The Gateway to Zanskar - Sissu To Padum via Shinkhu La
The next day was going to be fun. We were to crest Shinkhu La and make our way to Padum, in the heart of Zanskar, perhaps one of the very few Himalayan bastions which remains untainted by rampant commercialisation. Leaving from Sissu, the roads become rougher, less travelled, and far more remote. Zanskar isn't a part of the original route from Manali to Leh, but we chose it for the raw beauty and isolation it offers. It's a place where civilisation feels like a distant memory, and nature asserts itself in its most rugged and yet beautiful form.
The first highlight was the fabled Shinkhu La, a snow laden mountain pass at 16,580 feet. This is where our luck turned for the better because we made our way through smooth, serpentine roads and some snowfall on the climb to Shinkhu La. It was almost as if nature's best visual effects were in play! Next came the fabled and mythical Gonbo Ranjon, a tall mountain peak that stands all by itself and is said to be the abode of the Gods and Goddesses that the locals worship. It was shrouded in mist and at its base was the meandering Kargyak river and along the banks were many Yaks and Himalayan Bharal or Blue Sheep. The whole scenery was one of the prettiest sights you can set your eyes on. Photos and videos don't do justice to how beautiful Gonbo Ranjon is. And the peace and tranquillity that you experience by just being in its vicinity, makes you believe about the mysticism surrounding this holy mountain.
We rode through isolated villages, where time seems to stand still. The roads were quiet, save for the occasional shepherd guiding his flock of sheep. The beauty of Zanskar is humbling, almost spiritual-towering peaks on all sides, deep river valleys, and a sky so wide it feels like it could swallow you whole. There's an almost surreal quality to it, as if the world here is frozen in time, untouched by the modernity of civilisation. The higher we went, the thinner the air got, and the cold became sharper, but not once did the Tiger flinch or gasp for air. It was built exactly for this.
Day 4: Toughest Ride Yet - Padum To Kargil
The road to Kargil from Padum, via Pensi La Pass, is nothing short of an adventure that demands patience, grit, and the ability to embrace the wild beauty of the Zanskar Range. The day was balmy with the rain oscillating between a torrential downpour and pitter-patter raindrops. The first stretch out of Padum is deceptively simple-smooth tarmac leading towards the base of Pensi La Pass with rain being a constant companion. The terrain soon shifted, though, as the route ascended into the mountains, becoming progressively rougher and more unforgiving. The Tiger 900 handled the undulating dirt roads with ease, the long-travel suspension soaking up the sharp bumps and deep ruts, while the powerful 888 cc tripe providing some much-needed heat and music, humming steadily beneath me.
The Pensi La pass, standing at 14,400 feet (4,387 meters), is a formidable obstacle. The terrain became steeper, and with every hairpin bend, the air thinned out and rain gave way to thick snowfall. The temperature dropped noticeably and it became relatively tougher to keep the Tiger 900 in leash with the rear tyre threatening to slide at every twist of the throttle and every downshift. The Tiger was a dream to handle, with its commanding ground clearance allowing it to glide over rocky patches that would have had me second-guessing on a smaller motorcycle. As the final switchbacks took me up towards the pass, I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the famed Drang Drung glacier but the thick fog and heavy snowfall had other plans. At 23 km long, Drang Drung is the second largest glacier in Ladakh after Siachen and is also the source of the Stod river.
The summit of Pensi La is a stark, windswept place. The wind howled as all of us parked our motorcycles to take a breather and soak in the breathtaking view-snow-capped mountains all around, their majestic, rugged beauty making us feel incredibly small, just a blip on the cosmic radar. The pass is a place of isolation, and the quiet is profound, broken only by the howling wind and falling snow. For a moment, I got lost in the silence and the enormity of the landscape. The Tiger 900 conquered Pensi La, and I couldn't help but feel a deep sense of satisfaction and happiness.
As we climbed down from Pensi La, the starkness of the Zanskar Valley began to soften. The mountains lose some of their jaggedness, and the occasional patches of green appear, fed by the meandering rivers that carve through the valleys. The altitude continues to decrease, but even at lower elevations, the terrain is a constant reminder of the power of nature; vast, unpredictable, and awe-inspiring. Riding through this wild land, it's hard not to feel the thrill of isolation. There's a quiet, rugged beauty to this stretch of road-remote, untamed, and pristine.
The weather shifted with the descent. What was once cold, wet and snowing at the pass gradually warms into a comfortable temperature as we headed towards Kargil. The terrain started to show more signs of human life - small villages with mud-brick homes, monasteries perched on hilltops, and farmers tending to their crops.
Yet even with these signs of civilisation, the sense of remoteness never quite leaves you. As the day wore on, we approached the town of Kargil. The road wound through narrow valleys and along the surging Suru River that cut through the landscape for millennia. The approach to Kargil feels like entering a different world. Nestled between towering mountains, the town itself a gateway between the wild, desolate Zanskar and the more populous, yet equally stunning, Ladakh.
Day 5: Kargil - Visiting The Kargil War Memorial
We had a 'rest' day in Kargil, but it was a misnomer. The first half of the rest day meant that the entire group went for a 200 km ride, first from Kargil to the Kargil War Memorial, where we spent some time reminiscing about the Kargil War in 1999 and not only saw a moving, goosebump inducing documentary but talked to a few veterans and the Maratha regiment that was tasked with maintaining and managing the Memorial.
Then the group headed up a mountainous road that led to the lesser-known pass of Umba La, which at 15,091 feet, offered a bird's eye view of the Kargil War Theatre and the twin peaks of Nun and Kun, where the former is located in Jammu & Kashmir and the latter is located in Ladakh. The two 23,000 feet+ peaks are separated by a 4 km long icy plateau and also, Nun is the tallest peak in J&K. We spent some time at Umba La and then headed back to our hotel in Kargil.
Day 6: Leh - The Final Stretch
After hours of riding, the triumph of reaching Leh was sweet, and the Tiger proved itself every inch the adventure machine. The ride through Zanskar was tough, often testing both the rider and the machine, but it has also been a journey like no other. From the smooth roads of the plains to the treacherous mountain passes, the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro has been a faithful companion, capable of tackling everything from slick asphalt highways to cold deserts.
Leh, the final destination, stood in stark contrast to the rugged landscapes that preceded it. The town feels like a gateway to the greater Himalayan range, a place of stark beauty where Tibetan culture and Buddhist monasteries dot the landscape. After the chaotic adventure of the roads, Leh offers a peaceful respite. But even in its calm, there's a sense of exhilaration that lingers-because the journey through Zanskar was not just a ride, it was an odyssey.
Sitting back in the small café near the Leh Market, I took a deep breath and sipped on my coffee. The cold mountain air felt fresh, and as I reflected on the days gone by, I realised that the real essence of this journey wasn't just about getting from one place to another. It was about the challenges faced on the road - the raw terrain, the unpredictable weather, and the solitude of riding through one of the world's most remote places. Every bump, every slide, every twist of the throttle had been a moment of discovery, and the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro proved to be the perfect partner for this adventure.
As the sun set over the valley, painting the mountains in shades of orange and purple, I know that this journey-through Delhi, Manali, Zanskar, and finally Leh - will be etched in my memory for a lifetime. There's something indescribable about the rhythm of it all-each twist of the throttle, each shift of the gear and the people made this ride beyond memorable.
Photography: Nordkapp Films & Kingshuk Dutta
Day 1: The Ride Begins - Delhi To Chandigarh
The journey of a 1000 km long road trip begins with a basement photo of the motorcycle, in this case the updated Tiger 900. I was already familiar with the motorcycle, having ridden it earlier in Morocco, when it was launched as a new-generation model. As I hit the Delhi Chandigarh highway, I was able to observe the changes on the motorcycle. While the styling updates were minimal, the motorcycle had a few mechanical updates, with the engine now making more power and torque and being smoother too. Delhi to Chandigarh is straightforward and the Tiger munched up miles with immaculate ease. As I reached Chandigarh, I met all my fellow riders and the good folks from Triumph Motorcycles India along with XploreEarth Shimla, the team that was to conduct the ride all throughout. The good thing about motorcycles and motorcyclists is that you are always at ease and make friends easily, because motorcyclists always have lots of stories to tell.
Day 2: Entering The Himalayan Highs - Chandigarh To Manali
The early morning sun cast a long shadow as I thumbed the starter and the Tiger 900 woke up with a reassuring growl. The triple was idling as I strapped my luggage on to the motorcycle and don my gear, making the final checks coupled with some stretches for a long day in the saddle ahead. As I started riding the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro. Chandigarh's bustling streets soon faded into the rearview mirror as the Triumph cavalcade headed north, the buzz of the city replaced by the steady hum of the triple engine beneath me. The ride was smooth, with the Tiger 900 gliding effortlessly over the highways.
The first stretch is familiar, a long highway with its fair share of traffic, and by late afternoon, we reached Manali. The weather made the gradual shift from hot to pleasant as the altitude rose, and there was a distinct chill in the air now. The jagged mountains stood guard in the distance, almost whispering of the adventure that lay ahead. As we reached our hotel, there was a bonfire waiting which was a welcome after a chilly ride, followed by a sumptuous dinner where the team yet another chance to bond.
Day 3: Off-Road Excursion - Manali to Sissu
The next morning, the Tiger and I took the famous Atal tunnel, a 9 km long tunnel carved into the heart of a mountain, 10,171 feet above sea level in order to reach our destination for the day, Sissu. But it was not just a short ride. Team XploreEarth had a nice patch of off-road terrain ready for us where we were to ride till Chhatru for our lunch and then head back to Sissu. In total, it was a 50-60 km off-road patch, with winding roads, rock strewn water crossings, tricky mud and slush stretches and what not. And this is where I got a solid taste of what the Tiger 900 was capable of. With the enduro mode on, power dropped and ABS and traction control switched off, the Tiger 900 barely broke a sweat all throughout. The handling was impeccable, allowing me to confidently navigate the sharp twists and turns, while the suspension absorbs all undulations with relative ease. With a nice meal of 'pahadon wali maggi' and chai, and a ride back to our hotel in Sissu where we ended the day with a nice meal and some beautiful views of the peaks around.
Day 4: The Gateway to Zanskar - Sissu To Padum via Shinkhu La
The next day was going to be fun. We were to crest Shinkhu La and make our way to Padum, in the heart of Zanskar, perhaps one of the very few Himalayan bastions which remains untainted by rampant commercialisation. Leaving from Sissu, the roads become rougher, less travelled, and far more remote. Zanskar isn't a part of the original route from Manali to Leh, but we chose it for the raw beauty and isolation it offers. It's a place where civilisation feels like a distant memory, and nature asserts itself in its most rugged and yet beautiful form.
The first highlight was the fabled Shinkhu La, a snow laden mountain pass at 16,580 feet. This is where our luck turned for the better because we made our way through smooth, serpentine roads and some snowfall on the climb to Shinkhu La. It was almost as if nature's best visual effects were in play! Next came the fabled and mythical Gonbo Ranjon, a tall mountain peak that stands all by itself and is said to be the abode of the Gods and Goddesses that the locals worship. It was shrouded in mist and at its base was the meandering Kargyak river and along the banks were many Yaks and Himalayan Bharal or Blue Sheep. The whole scenery was one of the prettiest sights you can set your eyes on. Photos and videos don't do justice to how beautiful Gonbo Ranjon is. And the peace and tranquillity that you experience by just being in its vicinity, makes you believe about the mysticism surrounding this holy mountain.
We rode through isolated villages, where time seems to stand still. The roads were quiet, save for the occasional shepherd guiding his flock of sheep. The beauty of Zanskar is humbling, almost spiritual-towering peaks on all sides, deep river valleys, and a sky so wide it feels like it could swallow you whole. There's an almost surreal quality to it, as if the world here is frozen in time, untouched by the modernity of civilisation. The higher we went, the thinner the air got, and the cold became sharper, but not once did the Tiger flinch or gasp for air. It was built exactly for this.
Day 4: Toughest Ride Yet - Padum To Kargil
The road to Kargil from Padum, via Pensi La Pass, is nothing short of an adventure that demands patience, grit, and the ability to embrace the wild beauty of the Zanskar Range. The day was balmy with the rain oscillating between a torrential downpour and pitter-patter raindrops. The first stretch out of Padum is deceptively simple-smooth tarmac leading towards the base of Pensi La Pass with rain being a constant companion. The terrain soon shifted, though, as the route ascended into the mountains, becoming progressively rougher and more unforgiving. The Tiger 900 handled the undulating dirt roads with ease, the long-travel suspension soaking up the sharp bumps and deep ruts, while the powerful 888 cc tripe providing some much-needed heat and music, humming steadily beneath me.
The Pensi La pass, standing at 14,400 feet (4,387 meters), is a formidable obstacle. The terrain became steeper, and with every hairpin bend, the air thinned out and rain gave way to thick snowfall. The temperature dropped noticeably and it became relatively tougher to keep the Tiger 900 in leash with the rear tyre threatening to slide at every twist of the throttle and every downshift. The Tiger was a dream to handle, with its commanding ground clearance allowing it to glide over rocky patches that would have had me second-guessing on a smaller motorcycle. As the final switchbacks took me up towards the pass, I was hoping to catch a glimpse of the famed Drang Drung glacier but the thick fog and heavy snowfall had other plans. At 23 km long, Drang Drung is the second largest glacier in Ladakh after Siachen and is also the source of the Stod river.
The summit of Pensi La is a stark, windswept place. The wind howled as all of us parked our motorcycles to take a breather and soak in the breathtaking view-snow-capped mountains all around, their majestic, rugged beauty making us feel incredibly small, just a blip on the cosmic radar. The pass is a place of isolation, and the quiet is profound, broken only by the howling wind and falling snow. For a moment, I got lost in the silence and the enormity of the landscape. The Tiger 900 conquered Pensi La, and I couldn't help but feel a deep sense of satisfaction and happiness.
As we climbed down from Pensi La, the starkness of the Zanskar Valley began to soften. The mountains lose some of their jaggedness, and the occasional patches of green appear, fed by the meandering rivers that carve through the valleys. The altitude continues to decrease, but even at lower elevations, the terrain is a constant reminder of the power of nature; vast, unpredictable, and awe-inspiring. Riding through this wild land, it's hard not to feel the thrill of isolation. There's a quiet, rugged beauty to this stretch of road-remote, untamed, and pristine.
The weather shifted with the descent. What was once cold, wet and snowing at the pass gradually warms into a comfortable temperature as we headed towards Kargil. The terrain started to show more signs of human life - small villages with mud-brick homes, monasteries perched on hilltops, and farmers tending to their crops.
Yet even with these signs of civilisation, the sense of remoteness never quite leaves you. As the day wore on, we approached the town of Kargil. The road wound through narrow valleys and along the surging Suru River that cut through the landscape for millennia. The approach to Kargil feels like entering a different world. Nestled between towering mountains, the town itself a gateway between the wild, desolate Zanskar and the more populous, yet equally stunning, Ladakh.
Day 5: Kargil - Visiting The Kargil War Memorial
We had a 'rest' day in Kargil, but it was a misnomer. The first half of the rest day meant that the entire group went for a 200 km ride, first from Kargil to the Kargil War Memorial, where we spent some time reminiscing about the Kargil War in 1999 and not only saw a moving, goosebump inducing documentary but talked to a few veterans and the Maratha regiment that was tasked with maintaining and managing the Memorial.
Then the group headed up a mountainous road that led to the lesser-known pass of Umba La, which at 15,091 feet, offered a bird's eye view of the Kargil War Theatre and the twin peaks of Nun and Kun, where the former is located in Jammu & Kashmir and the latter is located in Ladakh. The two 23,000 feet+ peaks are separated by a 4 km long icy plateau and also, Nun is the tallest peak in J&K. We spent some time at Umba La and then headed back to our hotel in Kargil.
Day 6: Leh - The Final Stretch
After hours of riding, the triumph of reaching Leh was sweet, and the Tiger proved itself every inch the adventure machine. The ride through Zanskar was tough, often testing both the rider and the machine, but it has also been a journey like no other. From the smooth roads of the plains to the treacherous mountain passes, the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro has been a faithful companion, capable of tackling everything from slick asphalt highways to cold deserts.
Leh, the final destination, stood in stark contrast to the rugged landscapes that preceded it. The town feels like a gateway to the greater Himalayan range, a place of stark beauty where Tibetan culture and Buddhist monasteries dot the landscape. After the chaotic adventure of the roads, Leh offers a peaceful respite. But even in its calm, there's a sense of exhilaration that lingers-because the journey through Zanskar was not just a ride, it was an odyssey.
Sitting back in the small café near the Leh Market, I took a deep breath and sipped on my coffee. The cold mountain air felt fresh, and as I reflected on the days gone by, I realised that the real essence of this journey wasn't just about getting from one place to another. It was about the challenges faced on the road - the raw terrain, the unpredictable weather, and the solitude of riding through one of the world's most remote places. Every bump, every slide, every twist of the throttle had been a moment of discovery, and the Triumph Tiger 900 Rally Pro proved to be the perfect partner for this adventure.
As the sun set over the valley, painting the mountains in shades of orange and purple, I know that this journey-through Delhi, Manali, Zanskar, and finally Leh - will be etched in my memory for a lifetime. There's something indescribable about the rhythm of it all-each twist of the throttle, each shift of the gear and the people made this ride beyond memorable.
Photography: Nordkapp Films & Kingshuk Dutta